A Journey to Malta


 

Barbara (“Bobbie”) Evans Kinnear, daughter of Colonel Richard Ernest Evans, pictured with historian James Holland in front of a Supermarine Spitfire at the Malta Aviation Museum. [Photo credit: Stuart Bertie, Malta, May 16, 2023]

I was sipping my morning coffee when I just happened to come across an Instagram message, alerting followers that there were just a few places left on the “Fortress Malta” tour led by James Holland, the famed historian, author, and broadcaster who specializes in WWII history.

There was no question: this would be a trip to see the region that Captain Evans, my father, described in “Brave and Beautiful Malta”, Chapter 12 of his book, Richard Eager. I ran down the stairs and said to my husband, we MUST go on this trip, and so we did!

This was a journey in memory of Colonel Richard Ernest Evans who flew his B-17E, Theresa Leta, many times to the island country, Malta, during WWII. Valletta, the capital, was where the British 8th Army underground offices were located during the Allied invasion of Sicily (Operation Husky, July 9, 1943). All of Monty’s flights were top secret, but Evans’ own flight records showed that he flew a B-17E in and out of Malta at least seven times. Several of those flights included waiting in Malta until it was safe to join Montgomery in Sicily, and a few were to transport Montgomery and staff to Malta for important meetings after the initial invasion.

The entire tour was fun and fascinating. We loved traveling with our new British friends. And yes, there were several stand-out moments that I will mention.

We entered Valletta through the City Gates, the fifth set built since 1566, crossing over a bridge, reminiscent of the once historic bridge. On each side of the entrance were huge blocks of coralline limestone excavated from a Gozo quarry. They towered over the visitors and to me represented the city’s strength in resisting attacks over history. Powerful thick steel blades, sliced down between the ancient wall, where it abutted to each of the modernized stone gates. The blades reminded me of the Axis’ cruel attacks on the island’s citizens between 1940 and 1942.

City Gate, Valletta, Malta. [Photo credit: Mathew Axiakm CC BY-SA]

Another highlight were the Lascaris War Rooms, where the advance Allied Headquarters were located when General Eisenhower and his Supreme Commanders, Admiral Cunningham, Field Marshal Montgomery, and Air Marshal Tedder, directed the Allied invasion of Sicily. Countless pivotal decisions were made from these offices, 150 feet under the bastion where Valletta’s defensive battery was built in the 1560s. This was a poignant stop for me personally, for Captain Evans must have walked those same chiseled tunnels when he checked in with British Headquarters to observe the invasion progress and learn where Monty’s new headquarters could be found.

Another historic place that we visited was a small village north of Dingli. We looked out over a long, thin green valley and James described the story of a young fighter pilot who took off from the Ta’Qali airfield to test fly his Hurricane before the evening’s mission. Two German-piloted Messerschmitts had flown low over the island from Sicily, unnoticed by radar. They attacked and the Hurricane crashed against the left corner of the huge wall just across from where we stood. Our leader, James, described with energy, emotion, and eloquence this personal account. This story touched us all. We stood silently viewing the valley in sorrow and respect for this pilot and the many others who perished in this region.

Crash site near Dingli, Malta [Photo credit: Stuart Bertie, Malta, May 16, 2023]

The story reminded me of the everyday danger faced by all those serving in WWII. Even a test flight could be fatal. I remembered once again, with renewed respect and awe, that my father flew 55 missions over enemy territory during the war. It was courage, experience, and luck that helped him survive. He was also most grateful for those who helped him execute his duties and live to return home from Malta and the other WWII theaters of operations in which he flew.

Bobbie, Mike Peters (left), and James Holland (right) stand in front of Malta Memorial, a war memorial monument to the 2,298 Commonwealth aircrew who lost their lives in the various WWII air battles and engagements around the Mediterranean, whilst serving with the Commonwealth Air Forces and flying from bases in Austria, Italy, Sicily, islands of the Adriatic and Mediterranean, Malta, Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco, West Africa, Yugoslavia and Gibraltar, and who have no known grave. [Photo credit: Stuart Bertie, Malta, May 16, 2023]

 

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